LET LORD BYRON (1788-1824)
TAKE YOU ON A LITERARY TOUR
OF THE GREEK WORLD
AS IT EMERGES FROM
SOME LETTERS
HE WROTE TO HIS MOTHER
AND TO SOME AQUAINTANCES OF HIS

 

PART 2

TO HIS MOTHER

Constantinople, June 28, 1810

 

    My dear Mother,

    I regret to perceive by your last letter that several of mine have not arrived, particularly a very long one written last from Albania, where I was on a visit to the Pacha of that province. Fletcher has also written to his spouse perpetually.

    Mr. Hobhouse, who will forward or deliver this, and is on his return to England, can inform you of our different movements, but I am very uncertain as to my own return. He will probably be down in Notts. some time or other; but Fletcher, whom I send back as an incumbrance (English servants are sad travellers), will supply his place in the interim, and describe our travels, which have been tolerably extensive.

    I have written twice briefly from this capital, from Smyrna, from Athens and other parts of Greece; from Albania, the Pacha of which province desired his respects to my mother, and said he was sure I was a man of high birth because I had small ears, curling hair and white hands!!! He was very kind to me, begged me to consider him as a father, and gave me a guard of forty soldier through the forests of Acarnania. But of this and other circumstances I have written to you at large, and yet hope you will receive my letters.

    I remember Mahmout Pacha, the grandson of Ali Pacha, at Yanina, (a little fellow of ten years of age, with large black eyes, which our ladies would purchase at any price, ad those regular features  which distinguish the Turks,) asked me how I came to travel so young, without anybody to take care of me. This question was put by the little man with all the gravity of threescore. I cannot now write copiously; I have only time to tell you that I have passed many a fatiguing, but never a tedious moment; and all that I am afraid of is that I shall contract a gypsylike wandering disposition, which will make home tiresome to me: this, I am told, is very common with men in the habit of peregrination, and, indeed, I feel it so. On the 3rd  of May I swam from Sestos to Abydos. You know the story of Leander, but I had no Hero to receive me at landing.

    I also passed a fortnight on the Troad. The tombs of Achilles and Æsyetes still exist in large barrows, similar to those you have doubtless seen in the North. The other day I was at Belgrade (a village in these environs), to see the house built on the same site as Lady Mary Wortley’s. By-the-by, her ladyship, as far as I can judge, has lied, but not half so much as any other woman would have done in the same situation.

    I have been  in all the principal mosques by the virtue of a firman: this is a favour rarely permitted to Infidels, but the ambassador’s departure obtained it for us. I have been up the Bosporus into the Black Sea, round the walls of the city, and, indeed, I know more of it by sight than I do of London. I hope  to amuse you some winter’s evening with the details, but at present you must excuse me; – I am not able to write long letters in June. I return to spend my summer in Greece. I shall not proceed further into Asia, as I have visited Smyrna, Ephesus and the Troad. I write often, but you must not be alarmed when you do not receive my letters; consider we have no regular post farther than Malta, where I beg you will in future send your letters, and not to this city.

    Fletcher is a poor creature, and requires comforts that I can dispense with. He is very sick of his travels, but you must not believe his account of the country. He sighs for ale, and idleness, and a wife, and the devil knows what besides. I have not been disappointed or disgusted. I have lived with the highest and the lowest. I have been for days in a Pacha’s palace, and have passed many a night in a cowhouse, and I find the people inoffensive and kind. I have also passed some time with the principal Greeks in the Morea and Livadia, and, though inferior to the Turks they are better than the Spaniards, who, in their turn, excel the Portuguese. Of Constantinople you will find many descriptions in different travels; but Lady Mary Wortley errs strangely when she says: “St. Paul’s would cut a strange figure by St. Sophia’s”. I have been in both, surveyed them inside and out attentively. St. Sophia’s is undoubtedly the most interesting from its immense antiquity, ad the circumstance of all the Greek emperors, from Justinian, having been crowned there, and several murdered at the altar, besides the Turkish Sultans who attend it regularly. But it is inferior in beauty and size to some of the mosques, particularly “Soleyman, etc., and not to be mentioned in the same page with t. Paul (I speak like a Cockney). However I prefer the Gothic cathedral of Seville to St. Paul’s, St. Sophia’s, and any religious building I have ever seen.

    The walls of the Seraglio are like the walls of Newstead gardens, only higher, and much in the same order; but the ride of the walls of the city, on the land side,  is beautiful. Imagine four miles of immense triple battlements, covered with ivy, surmounted with 218 towers, and, on the other side of the road, Turkish burying-grounds (the loveliest spots on earth), full of enormous cypresses. I have seen the ruins of Athens, of Ephesus, and Delphi. I have traversed  great part of Turkey and many other parts of Europe, and some of Asia;  But I never beheld a work of nature or art which yielded an impression like the prospect on each side from the Seven Towers to the end of the Golden Horn.

…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

            Believe me, yours very sincerely, Byron

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TO JOHN CAM HOBHOUSE

 

Patras, July 29th, 1810

 

    Dear Hobhouse.

    The same day which saw me ashore at Zea, set me forth once more upon the high seas, where I had the pleasure of seeing the frigate in the Doldrums by the light of sun and moon. Before daybreak I got into the Attics at Thaskalio, hence I dispatched men to Keratia for horses, and in ten hours from landing I was in Athens. There I was greeted by Lord Sligo, and next day Messrs. North, Knight, and Fazakerly paid me formal visits. Sligo has a brig with 50 men who won’t work, 12 guns that refuse to go off, and sails that have cut every wind except a contrary one, and then they are as willing as may be. He is sick of the concern, but an engagement of six months prevents him from parting with this precious ark. He would  travel with me to Corinth, though as you may suppose I was already heartily disgusted with travelling in company. He has “en suite” a painter, a captain, a gentleman misinterpreter (who boxes with the painter), besides sundry idle English varlets. We were obliged to have twenty-nine horses in all. The captain and the Drogueman were left at Athens to kill  bullocks for the crew, and the Marquis and the limner, with a ragged Turk by way of Tartar, and the ship’s carpenter in the capacity of linguist, with two servants (one of whom had the gripes) clothed both in leather breeches (the thermometer 125° !!), followed over the hills and far away. On our route, the poor limner in these gentle latitudes was ever and anon condemned to bask for half-an-hour, that he night produce what he himself termed a “bellissimo sketche” (pardon the orthography of the last word) of the surrounding country. You may also suppose that a man of the Marchese’s kidney was not very easy in his seat. As for the servants, they and their leather breeches were equally immovable at the end of the first stage. Fletcher, too, with his usual acuteness, contrived at Megara to ram his damned clumsy foot into a boiling tea-kettle. At Corinth we separated, the Marquis for Tripolitza, I for Patras. Thus far the ridiculous part of my narrative belongs to others, now comes my turn. At Vostitza I found my dearly-beloved Eustathius, ready to follow me not only to England, but to Terra Incognita, if so be  my compass pointed that way. This was four days ago: at present affairs are a little  changed. The next-morning I found the dear soul upon horseback clothed very sprucely in Greek garments, with those ambrosial curls hanging down his amiable back, and to my utter astonishment, and the great abomination of Fletcher, a parasol in his hand to save his complexion from the heat. However, in spite of the parasol on we travelled very much enamoured, as it should seem, till we got to Patras, where Strané received us into his new house where I now scribble. Next day he went to visit some accursed cousin and the day after we had a grand quarrel. Strané said I spoilt him. I said nothing: the child was as forward as an unbroken colt, and Strané’s Janizary said I must not be surprised, for he as too true a Greek not to be disagreeable. I think I never in my life took so much pains to please any one, or succeeded so ill. I particularly avoided every thing could possibly give the least offence in any manner. Somebody says, that those who try to please will please. This I know not; but I am sure that no one likes to fail in the attempt. At present he goes back to his father, though he is now become more tractable. Our parting was vastly pathetic, as many kisses as would have sufficed for a boarding school, and embraces  enough to have ruined the character of a county in England, besides tears (not on my part), and expressions of “Tenerezza” to a vast amount. All this and the warmth of the weather has quite overcome me. Tomorrow I will continue. At present, “to bed”, “to bed”, “to bed”. The youth insists on seeing me to-morrow, the issue of which interview you shall hear. I wish you a pleasant sleep.

 

July 30th, 1819

 

    I hope you have slept well. I have only dozed. For this last six days I have slept little and eaten less. The heat has burnt me brown, and as for Fletcher he is a walking Cinder. My new Greek acquaintance has called thrice, and we improve vastly. In good truth, so it ought to be, for I have quite exhausted my poor powers of pleasing, which God knows are little enough, Lord help me! We are to go to Tripolitza and Athens together. I do not what has put him into such good humour unless it is some Sal Volatile I administered for his headache, and a green shade instead of that  parasol. But so it is. We have redintegrated (a new word for you) our affections at a great rate. Now is not all this very ridiculous? Pray tell Matthew. It would do his heart good to see me travelling with my Tartar, Albanians, Buffo, Fletcher and this amiable παιδη prancing by my side. Strané hath got a steed which I have bought, full of spirit, I assure you, and very handsome accoutrements. My account with him was as I stated on board the Salsette. Here hath just arrived the Chirugeon of the Spider from Zante, who will take this letter to Malta. I hope it will find you warm. You cannot conceive what a delightful companion you are now you are gone. Sligo has told me some things that ought to set you and me by the ears, but they shan’t ; and as a proof of it, I won’t tell you what they are till  we meet, but in the meantime I exhort you to behave well in polite society. His Lordship has been very kind, and as I crossed the Isthmus of Corinth offered if I chose to take me to that of Darien, but I liked it not, for you have cured me of “villainous company”.

    I am about – after a Giro of the Morea – to  move to Athens again, and thence I know not where; perhaps to Englonde, Malta, Sicily, Ægypt, or the Low Countries. I suppose you are at Malta or Palermo. I amuse myself alone very much to my satisfaction, riding, bathing, sweating, hearing Mr. Paul’s musical clock, looking at his red breeches; we visit him every evening. There he is, playing at stopper with the old Cogia Bachi. When these amusements fail, there is my Greek to quarrel with, and a sopha to tumble upon. Nourse and Dacres had been at Athens scribbling all sorts of ribaldry over my old apartment, where Sligo, before my arrival, had added to your B.A. an A.S.S., and scrawled the compliments of Jackson, Deeville, Miss Cameron, and “I am very unhappy Sam Jennings”. Wallace is incarcerated, and wanted Sligo to bail him, at the “Bell and Savage”, Fleet Rules. The news are not surprising. What think you?  Write to me from Malta, the Mediterranean, or Ingleterra, to care of μονόλοο Στράνε.

    Have you cleansed my pistols? And dined with the “Gineral”? My compliments to the church of St. John’s, and peace to the ashes  of Ball. How is the Skipper? I have drank his cherry-brandy, and his rum has floated over half the Morea. Plaudite et valete.

Yours ever, Byron.

 

 

 

 

TO JOHN CAM HOBHOUSE

 

Tripolitza, August 16th, 1810

 

    Dear Hobhouse,

    I am on the rack of setting of for Argos amidst the usual creaking, swearing, loading, and neighing of sixteen horses and as many men, serrugees included. You have probably received one letter dated Patras, and I send this at a venture. Vely Pacha received me even better than his father did, though he is to join the Sultan, and the city is full of troops and confusion, which, as he said, prevented him from paying proper attention. He has given me a very pretty horse, and a most particular invitation to meet him at Larissa, which last is singular enough, as he recommended a different route to Lord Sligo, who asked leave to accompany him to the Danube. I asked no such thing, but on his enquiry where I meant to go, and receiving for answer that I was about to return to Albania, for the purpose of penetrating higher up the country he replied: “No, you must not take that route, but go round by Larissa, where I shall remain some time, on my way. I will send to Athens, and you shall join me; we will eat and drink and go a hunting..” He said he wished all the old men (specifying under that epithet  North, Forresti, and Strané) to go to his father, but the young ones to come to him, to use his own expression, “Vecchio con Vecchio, Giovane con Giovane”. He honoured me with the appellations of his friend and brother, and hoped that we should be on good terms, not for a few days but for life. All this is very well, but he has an awkward manner of throwing his arm round one’s  waist, and squeezing one’s hand in public which is a high compliment, but very much embarrasses “ingenuous youth”.

    The first time I saw him he received me standing, accompanied me at my departure to the door of the audience chamber, and told me I was a παλικαρι and an εύμορφω παίδι. He asked if I did not think it very proper that as young men (he has a beard down to his middle) we should live together, with a variety of other sayings which made Strané stare, and puzzled me in my replies. He was very facetious with Andreas and Viscille, and recommended that my Albanians’ heads should be cut off if they behaved ill. I shall write to you from Larissa, and inform you of our proceedings in that city. In the meantime I sojourn at Athens. I have sent Eustathius back to his home; he plagued my soul out with his whims, and is besides subject to epileptic fits (tell M. this) which made him a perplexing  companion; in other matters he was very tolerable, I mean as to his learning, being well versed in the Ellenics. You remember Nicolo at Athens, Lusieri’s wife’s brother. Give my compliments to Matthews, from whom I expect a congratulatory letter. I have a thousand anecdotes for him and you, but at present, τί να κάμω? I have neither time nor space, but in the words of Dawes, “I have things in store”. I have scribbled thus much. Where shall I send it? Why, to Malta or Paternoster Row. Hobby, you wretch, how is the Miscellany? that damned and damnable work. What has the learned world said to your Paradoxes? I hope you did not forget the importance of Monogamy. Strané  has jus arrived with bags of piastres, so that I must conclude by the usual  phrase of

Yours, etc. etc., Byron

 

P. S . – You knew young Bossari at Yanina; he is a piece of Ali Pacha’s!! Well did Horace write “Nil Admirari”